Our cookbook of the week is Duchess Bake Shop by self-taught baker Giselle Courteau, co-owner of Duchess Bake Shop, Duchess Provisions, Duchess Atelier, and Cafe Linnea (all in Edmonton, Alta.) Over the next four days, we’ll feature Valentine’s Day-appropriate recipes from the book and an interview with its author.
On Valentine’s Day at Duchess Bake Shop, L’Amour macaron gâteau “is by far our biggest seller,” pastry chef Giselle Courteau says. She created the dessert in homage to famed French pastry chef Pierre Hermé. With notes of lychee, rose and raspberry, it’s her take on Hermé’s classic Ispahan macaron gâteau.
Courteau’s version of the cake consists of two oversized macaron shells, tinted pink and filled with vanilla bean buttercream, fresh raspberries, rose ganache, raspberry jam and lychees.
“It’s a lot of work, but it is fun. It’s something special,” she says. “Macarons are one of the trickier things to master in the book. But if you make the gâteau at home, my one tip is not to overmix the batter. You need to be able to pipe it into that heart shape.”
L’AMOUR MACARON GÂTEAU
Makes: 1 x 7-inch gâteau
For French meringue macaron shells:
135 g (1/4 cup + 3 tbsp) almond flour (finely ground almonds)
195 g (1 1/2 cups + 2 tbsp) icing sugar
100 g (about 3 large) egg whites, at room temperature
38 g (3 tbsp) granulated sugar
7 g (2 tsp) egg white powder (egg albumen)
1/4 tsp powder colour, pink
1 batch Vanilla Bean Buttercream (recipe follows)
1 pint (2 cups) fresh raspberries
1/2 batch Rose White Chocolate Ganache (recipe follows)
1/4 cup homemade or good-quality raspberry jam
1/3 cup drained and chopped canned lychees
A few fresh raspberries, for garnish
Equipment: You will need a baking sheet and four piping bags, two fitted with medium round piping tips (#803 or #804).
To make the macaron shells: You will need a template for piping the batter. Cut a piece of parchment paper the size of your baking sheet and trace 2 heart shapes onto it, each 7 by 7 inches. Place the template on the baking sheet and cover it with a second piece of parchment. The shapes will show through for you to use as a guide when piping. You can save this template and reuse it next time you make this gâteau.
To make the macaron shells
Sift the almond flour and icing sugar together into a bowl. If necessary, press the last of the mixture through the sifter with your hands. Discard any larger pieces that won’t go through. Set aside.
Place the egg whites in a stand mixer bowl. Sift the granulated sugar, egg white powder, and powder colour onto the egg whites.
Whip on high until a stiff meringue forms (4 to 4 1/2 minutes). Make sure to whip until it’s really stiff.
Pour the sifted almond flour mixture over the meringue and, using a spatula, gently incorporate until just combined. Transfer the batter to a shallow wide bowl.
Now proceed to the macaronage. With a plastic bowl scraper, smear the batter along the sides of the bowl and scrape it back into the centre. Repeat until the batter becomes shiny and reaches the consistency of very slow-flowing lava. How many times you need to do this is highly variable; it might be only a couple of passes or up to a half dozen.
Place a piping bag fitted with a tip inside a tall glass and fold the edges of the bag over the rim. Fill the bag with the macaron batter.
Hold the piping bag vertically with the tip 1/2 inch above the baking sheet. With even pressure, while holding your piping bag steady, pipe concentric hearts onto the lined baking sheet following the template that you have placed underneath, starting on the outside and working your way in.
Let the shells rest at room temperature until a skin forms on the surface. This should take 20 to 25 minutes. Test for readiness by touching the top of a shell with your finger. The batter should not feel sticky. While the shells are resting, preheat your oven to 350°F (180˚C), positioning the oven rack in the middle of the oven.
Bake the shells for 12 minutes. Briefly open the oven door to let out steam, rotate the baking sheet, and bake for another 8 minutes. Note: Oven times may vary. If the shells start to brown around the edges, immediately remove them from the oven.
Let the shells cool for 20 minutes before carefully peeling them off the parchment paper. At this stage, you can wrap the shells in plastic wrap or place them in a sealed, airtight container and freeze them for up to a week before filling. Let thaw at room temperature for 20 minutes before assembling.
To assemble the gâteau
Fill one of the tipless piping bags with rose ganache and the other with raspberry jam. Cut a hole at the end of each bag, making sure the hole for the rose ganache bag is small enough to fit into the centre of a raspberry. Fill a piping bag fitted with a tip with vanilla buttercream.
Pipe rose ganache into the centre of each raspberry and arrange the raspberries, filled side down, in a heart shape along the outer edge of the bottom macaron shell. Add a ‘V’ shape of filled raspberries inside the heart.
Pipe a thin layer of vanilla buttercream between the rows of raspberries. Top with a thin layer of raspberry jam.
Spoon chopped lychees onto the raspberry jam and top with another thin layer of buttercream. The filling should now come up even with the tops of the raspberries.
Place the second macaron shell on top and press gently, taking care not to crack it.
Pipe a small dot of rose ganache on top of the shell and garnish with a few fresh raspberries.
Storage: This gâteau will keep for up to three days in the refrigerator.
VANILLA BEAN BUTTERCREAM
Fills: 1 macaron gateau
2 large egg whites
83 g (1/3 cup + 1 tbsp) sugar
226 g (1 cup) unsalted butter, cubed, at room temperature
1 vanilla bean, scraped
Equipment: You will need an instant-read digital thermometer and a stand mixer with the whisk and paddle attachments.
Procedure: Before you start the buttercream, make sure the butter is soft and at room temperature.
Heat the egg whites, sugar, and salt over medium heat in a stand mixer bowl fitted over a double boiler, whisking often, until the mixture reaches 55°C (130°F).
Remove from heat and fit the bowl to your stand mixer. Using the whisk attachment, whip on high speed until the meringue is shiny and forms stiff peaks.
Turn the mixer off and change to the paddle attachment. With the mixer on medium speed, add the butter cubes, a few at a time. Mix until light and fluffy.
Fold in vanilla bean seeds.
Storage: Buttercream will keep in the refrigerator for up to one week or in the freezer for up to one month. Bring it to room temperature and whip it up again in the mixer before using it.
ROSE WHITE CHOCOLATE GANACHE
Fills: 1 macaron gateau
200 g (1 1/3 cups) white chocolate
100 g (1/3 cup + 2 tbsp) whipping cream
1 tsp rose water
Ingredient note: For the white chocolate we use Valrhona 35 per cent Ivoire callets.
Procedure: It’s best to make the ganache before starting the macaron shells so that it has the time to set in the refrigerator.
Slowly melt the white chocolate over a double boiler or in a microwave on half power. While the chocolate is melting, heat the cream in a saucepan until just scalding.
Pour the hot cream over the chocolate in three parts, using a heatproof spatula to mix well between each addition. Mix in rose water. Refrigerate until set, about 2 hours.
Remove the ganache from the refrigerator about 20 minutes before you’re ready to fill the shells so that it can come to room temperature.
Storage: Ganache will keep in the refrigerator for up to one week.
Excerpted from Duchess Bake Shop: French-Inspired Recipes from our Bakery to Your Home by Giselle Courteau. Copyright © 2014 Duchess Bake Shop. Appetite by Random House® edition published 2017. Published by Appetite by Random House®, a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited. Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved.
Source : https://nationalpost.com/life/food/cook-this-lamour-macaron-gateau-an-epic-valentines-day-dessert